Chronicles of an itinerant

It’s been an eon since I scribbled and I would be lying if I allied it to anything else save for the lack of inspiration. However, an expedition I recently partook in rendered my “fingers prickly”

Kapchorwa, Uganda is worth writing home about; the whole nine yards!

Breathtaking highway

First off, one is awed by the geometric design of this highway which; for a first timer; is daunting to drive along as the sight distance is overly limited by the sag and crest curves. However, it’s a worthwhile adrenaline rush experience. 

Fast-forward a few miles into town, you catch sight of several Sipi falls signposts for a stretch of over 5kms; evidently, manifesting the jewel in the crown of the region and the high point of my trip.

We (the Adventurers as we oftentimes prefer to call ourselves for lack of a better group name) opted to check in at Crow’s nest in Sipi village commended by Richard; an awesome lad who would be our tour guide.

The Adventurers

Richard (Center)

Muzungu as he is fondly referred to by the locals ensured that we were well settled in prior to our much anticipated tour. Why Muzungu? Apparently, he started out as a Guide at a tender age of 13 and has since been a favourite of the “Bazungu” (a term used to refer to White globetrotters) that visit the village so much so that he adopted their intonation. For instance, he says “Warafall” in lieu of waterfall.  We were totally blown away.

Donned in hiking attire and equipped with the basic tools, we set out to take a gander at God’s unsurpassable creation.

Our initial sojourn was indefinite; nonetheless we religiously trekked on; which toilsome as it was got endurable with the Guide elatedly volunteering the cultural and natural heritage of the village. In regard to Sipi falls, apparently, the natives originally called it Sepe; loosely translated as water and when the “Muzungu” came, he altered it to Sipi for reasons unbeknownst to them. However, if you ask me, the "Muzungu" felt Sipi sounded cool and closer to sipping. No?

We also ascertained that Sipi Falls is not a single waterfall, as opposed to popular belief, but rather 3 different waterfalls that form at different spots where the Sipi River flows over different high cliffs on its course down the Mountain Elgon.

One of the smaller falls

Winded by the lengthy ascending episodes, we were finally awed by the most scenic roaring waterfalls. The vibe in this place is chilly but also hypnotic. The burbling is so vigorous we could hardly hear each other save for the “huhuuuuuuuu” sounds made at every photo opportunity. We were totally magnetized,  notwithstanding that we even got soaked by the thunderous splash. What a sight to behold!

The thought that this was merely one of the smaller falls was mind-boggling!

The next one was just as amazing with rainbows cutting through the sparkly waterfalls. However, this was our last stop in the twilight as we were totally spent from excessive hiking.

Beautiful rainbow

Daybreak was yet another picturesque experience. Day two in the "waterfalls’ village" graced us with the most amazing spectacle that only pictures such as the one below can best describe.

Picturesque dawn

A friend and I opted to take an eleventh hour stroll around the village prior to heading out seeing as the rest opted to sleep in. They succumbed to the previous day's lethargy; lazy bums they are!

Still and all, Essie and I headed out with Richard for an escapade we code named “unveil major Sipi falls before departure”. However, getting to the chief falls wasn’t a walk in the park. We just about yielded quite a few times but thanks to Richard’s cajoling and a few breathers here and there, we soldiered on and, boy oh boy, was it worthwhile! This particular one is undoubtedly the most noteworthy of them all.

It plummets over a massive 100 meters high cliff. It is simply jaw-dropping. It is also the spot for the famed abseiling; which activity exhilarating as it seems; is yet to feature on my bucket list; thanks to my acrophobia!

The biggest Sipi falls

Our next destination was the Missi Cave; a spine-chilling place but akin to the falls; compelling too. We kept venturing regardless of the eerie ambiance.

Path leading to cave

Apparently, it used to be a sanctuary for one community up until government claimed it as a tourist spot for its cultural value.  They had sleeping, cooking and storytelling areas in there as revealed by the caretaker; who gleefully showed us around. The demarcations were totally artistic!

Story-telling area

Just outside the cave is another tiny waterfall-like feature. This village is so blessed with flowing water! It is little wonder that there’s so much green, blooming plants and animals.

Next to the cave

Sipi community is an outstandingly sociable lot. Skimpily dressed as we may have seemed in their books, all and sundry, regardless of age offered a hello, waved and grinned. Plus, they speak the Queen’s dialect so effortlessly it’s simply amazing.

Notably though, one ought to have with them a bag of loose change when planning on visiting this beautiful village. See, it is inevitable to use the village paths as you trek to the falls, however, even mere responding to a resident’s hello could cost you. Beat that!

It wouldn’t be fanciful to deduce that it’s how much they feel entitled considering they dwell on these lands that are so amply endowed by nature.

Nevertheless, this tour; albeit rather strenuous and occasionally bloodcurdling, was a cut above the rest for me by far.